The line you cannot clean

That dark line where the sink meets the counter, or where the tub meets the wall, is old caulk. Once mold grows behind it, no amount of scrubbing removes it — the stain is inside the sealant, not on the surface.

Re-caulking properly means a gun, a tube, a smoothing tool and a steady hand. This kit replaces that job with a peel-and-stick strip, and adds the three brushes that reach the grime that caused the problem in the first place.

What it fixes

• Black mold staining along kitchen counters, sinks, hobs and bathtub edges
• Water seeping behind the counter or tub and swelling the board underneath
• Grime and grease packed into the narrow gap between the tap base and the surface
• Grout lines and corners a sponge cannot reach

What's in the box

• 1 × waterproof self-adhesive caulk strip (pre-creased along the fold so it bends cleanly around corners)
• 3 × hard-bristle crevice brushes in different widths — flat, angled and pointed

How to apply — under 10 minutes

1. Clean and dry the joint completely. Use one of the brushes to lift old residue out of the gap. The tape will not bond to a damp or greasy surface — this step decides whether it lasts.
2. Peel and press. Fold the strip along its crease, peel the backing a few centimetres at a time, and press it into the corner as you go. Work in short sections, not the whole length at once.
3. Seal the ends. Press firmly along the full length, then run a dry finger along both edges. Leave it for a few hours before the area gets wet.

Where it works — and where it does not

It is designed for flat, clean, dry internal joints: counter-to-wall, sink-to-counter, tub-to-tile, hob-to-worktop. It is not a structural sealant and is not intended for joints that move, for external walls, or for fully submerged use. It is a cover-and-protect strip: if the existing caulk is failing and water is already getting behind it, remove the old caulk first.

Frequently asked questions

Can I apply it over existing moldy caulk?

You can, but it will trap the mold underneath. For a lasting result, cut out the worst of the old sealant and clean the joint with a brush first.

Will it stick to tiles?

Yes — glazed tile, ceramic, stainless steel and sealed stone all bond well, provided the surface is clean, dry and free of grease.

Can I cut it to length?

Yes. Cut with ordinary scissors, and fold the ends under for a tidier finish.